Fowey, Cornwall - a guide

The deep water harbour has long been an important trading port for Cornwall, primarily the export of china clay. Today the working harbour is still busy year-round, and is also a welcome haven for pleasurecraft and visiting vessels with several marinas, and deep water anchorage for the cruise ships that visit annually.

Fowey sits on the west bank of the river Fowey, marked at the coastal entrance by St Catherine’s Castle. Once a small artillery fort, the castle was built by Henry VIII in the 1530s to defend Fowey. Now owned by English Heritage (free), access is by foot from the South West Coast Path. On the opposite bank, Punches Cross is a white cross dating back to medieval times, now a navigational aid for accessing Fowey harbour. The village of Polruan is linked to Fowey by a foot ferry; cars can cross to Boddinick using the chain car ferry that links mid and east Cornwall.

Fowey’s Literary History

Fowey has an interesting literary history, most famously being home to Daphne du Maurier. The du Maurier Festival Society now hosts an annual literary festival in May in the town, attracting a variety of authors and speakers. Du Maurier first holidayed and then lived off and off in Fowey from 1926 until her death in 1989, first at Ferryside by the Bodinnick ferry, and then at Readymoney Cove, before leasing Menabilly (the inspiration for Manderley in Rebecca) and then latterly Kilmarth from the local Rashleigh family.

Other writers of note with a connection to Fowey include Kenneth Grahame, who first came to Fowey in 1899, staying at the Fowey Hotel (now Fowey Hall Hotel) and writing much of what became the Wind in the Willows on the hotel’s letter headed paper. The manor, built by Charles Hanson, still occupies a commanding position on the hillside with views over the town and harbour, and is widely considered to have been Grahame’s inspiration for Toad Hall. Other local authors have included Sir Arthur Quiller-Couch - 'Q' and Leo Walmsley, both of whom lived and wrote in Fowey.

Places of interest and things to do in Fowey

The sandy beach at Readmoney Cove is within easy walking distance from the town centre - and marks the end of the Saints Way (a 30-mile pilgrimage walk that starts in Padstow). A swimming platform is anchored in the summer months and while there are no lifeguards, the water is safe from boats, and is a lovely place to swim. At low tide the beach is perfect for sandcastles, and the lovely beach shop and café serve drinks, ice creams and has toilets. 

The South West Coast Path passes through the town and over to Polruan on the opposite side of the river Fal, or head the other way south past St Catherine’s Castle and on to Polridmouth for Menabilly; other walks around Fowey include the circular Hall Walk route which takes in Fowey and Polruan and across to Lantic Bay (National Trust) via both ferries.

Newly renovated at Whitehouse beach in the town is Whitehouse Pool, creating a safe seawater paddling pool for little ones to swim in and splash at. At high tide, there is no beach, but it is also another lovely place to swim. 

Fowey Old Grammar School Garden is a council-run communal garden on Esplanade, making a peaceful place to sit and admire the view. A children’s playground is on Park Hill, as well as in the ground of Fowey Hall Hotel, but the best view from any of them is the one by Polruan Hill car park on the other side of the water.

On the quay, near the large ‘Rook with a Book’ sculpture by Thrussells is Fowey Aquarium, a bijou fascinating space filled with species and samples, all found each season nearby. Boat trips depart daily here, crossing to Polruan, or heading up the river, as well as boat hire. There are two main slipways for launching trailered boats, and numerous smaller slipways for kayaks and SUPs - just don’t forget to pay your harbour dues. 

The annual regatta week takes place in August, with spectacular sailing events, gig racing, and a variety of land-based activities and celebrations including a disco, carnival, fireworks, and sometimes a visit by the Red Devils, who land in Fowey harbour. 

Just upriver is Golant, home to the renowned Castle Dore rowing club (among other accolades, double men's eight world champion Morgan Bolding started his career here) and also The Fisherman’s Arms pub, and quirky late night events venue, Bar Silo.

In December, Fowey Christmas Market attracts businesses and visitors from all over Cornwall.

Where to shop in Fowey

Fore Street and North Street are Fowey’s main shopping streets, lined with mostly independent shops. Don’t miss Shrew Books, Molesworth & Bird and Webb & Co for interiors and homewares, Pink Lemon Boutique and Salt Society for women’s clothes, and John’s for beer, wine and spirits. Branches of Whistlefish and Brocante also sell cards and homewares.

The best pasties are from Quay Bakery; head to local producer Kittows for meat, fish and vegetables.

Where to eat in Fowey

Fowey has many independent cafés and eateries, here are some of our favourites. 

For breakfast, or coffee, try Brown Sugar, or the new Red Rocket Café. Salt Society also serves coffee. There is a branch of The Cornish Bakery for saffron buns, and for ice cream, head to Ruby’s on Fore Street, or Game of Cones on Passage Street near the Bodinnick Ferry for shakes and waffles. 

For lunch the hip North Street Kitchen on North Street is walk-in only but book for weekend dinners. Casual seafood takeaway can be found at Captain Hanks opposite, and in the summer months in the Oyster Shuck under the King of Fowey on the quay. There is a fish and chip takeaway just back from the quay.

For sit-in but still casual seafood, head to Sam’s on Fore Street. In the evenings, fancier options specialising in local produce include The Old Quay House, the King at Fowey on the Quay, and newly opened Narla on Fore Street. Pintxo is a tapas place on Esplanade - in summer they have tables on the street - and head to Bufala for pizzas. Pubs range from the traditional - The Ship Inn, The Galleon, and The Lugger -  to the higher end at the King on the quay, although it is a St Austell Brewery pub and you can still just pop in for a pint. Afternoon tea at Fowey Hall Hotel is also worth a walk up the hill.